Bhutan - The Land of the Thunder Dragon!

How do I start talking about this amazing nine day bike trip, it was quite exquisite. The air was so refreshing, panoramic skies, pleasantly chilled weather, fresh water river streams, evergreen landscapes and the land of most spiciest chilies.

We started our journey towards the mystical and magical Bhutan in the month of December, 2019 from Bagdogra Airport, Siliguri, West Bengal which is the most common land route to head to the border of the country via Jaigon. Now this was purely a group bike tour planned in advance from Mumbai. Maximum tourists from India hire a min van or private vehicle with a tour guide from Bhutan. I booked the tour from Deyor Camps for two people and hired a 500 cc Royal Enfield Thunderbird. The bike is pretty comfortable for two people and riding style is apt for hilly roads. As soon as we came out of the airport, the group instructor was waiting in parking lot with bikes, helmet and a van to carry luggage. This is one of the advantages of going in group bike tour that you get a luggage van and no need to strap luggage yourself on bike and carry the extra weight.

The first day was a good six hour ride (176 km) from Bagdogra airport to Phuentsholing in Bhutan and roads were superb and weather was pleasant. Got pretty chilly in the evening. This day you get adjusted to riding in groups, knowing your fellow riders and getting accustomed to following instructions from your tour leader. Our group was quite nice and diversified, people from across towns and cities in India. Always a good cultural experience this way. Now we were supposed to reach our destination by 6 pm however, there was a couple whose flight had got late and they were coming alone from the airport. So had to wait about 2 hours in between. Unfortunately they had a horrendous experience being alone, as their bike faced some issues and they had to carry luggage themselves. Thankfully they made it to our stop and took some rest before we resumed our ride. Once we were about to enter Bhutan via the border gate, all spirits got lifted again. The gate was really surprising as it seemed so easy to enter and pass. Our resort was booked on the upper side of the town so it was away from main market zone and quite relaxing. 

Phuentsholing has no restrictions for entry, anyone can come and go as they please, so there is a huge market with Indian shopkeepers and restaurants. Only to go ahead, you need tourist visa which your tour operator has to arrange for you. Do note, Bhutan cannot be done on your own, you need a Bhutanese guide as per law during your entire trip. The embassy is near the main town and be ready to face lot of crowd and waiting as tourist season is almost throughout the year. This town has many Bhutanese locals but the feel and charm of the country starts once you go ahead. Your tour guide will definitely keep one day in itinerary for obtaining only visa and rest of the day just explore the town. After the visa is done, you can try some local cafe and also there is a monastery at the top which offers aerial view of the town. Now something very unique you notice about the culture here is, no matter what shop or cafe you go to. They have pictures of the king and queen, and now the prince as well. This was seen across all the country and seemed to show how patriotic and devoted the locals are toward their leadership. The next day we started our main journey. The itinerary was fairly simple for nine days.

Siliguri - Phuentsholing – Thimphu – Punakha – Paro – Phuentsholing – Siliguri

This ensured we had enough time for sightseeing and taking breaks in between our daily rides and on top of it, enough time for leisure as well. It was not at all a tiring trip, was well balanced and enjoyable. Our Bhutanese guide and bike group leader were both very helpful and polite.

The first riding route in Bhutan was itself quite a thrill once we started ascending from Pheuntsholing. Landscapes started becoming more beautiful. You see more of bulkier and friendly hilly dogs who are quite adorable. Roads were very smooth and in 'a okay' condition with the locals following traffic rules in a disciplined manner. Stopping for a hot tea or coffee is a must. Riding the roads along the twist and turns is more surreal and every bikers dream. There was no need to speed at all, you can go at a decent pace as there is a van at the end who will always make sure nobody is left behind. Still obviously most of us being from cities, there was a always a need to hush a little and be ahead, but overtaking with signals was followed religiously. Phuentsholing to Thimphu was a good five-six hour ride (150 km) but quite pleasant as many breaks were taken and in between we stopped at a waterfall too. One interesting thing to notice was when royals are passing by in their vehicles everybody on the road gives way without any hesitation. You can hear the siren of police vehicles leading these royals in advance and everyone gives way by default. Before entering Thimphu, the weather got a little more chillier and even full padded riding gloves and jacket were not helping much. Thermals are a must from this point. 

Thimphu is a proper city on a hill with a well planned infrastructure and pass ways to reach east from west part of the city easily. The first day it was difficult to even step out in the night as our body was getting used to the new cold temperature, it was I think around 6 degrees in the night. We were thinking, if this is like this what will happen in Paro where it is easily 1 to 2 degrees all day. However next day which was planned for sightseeing in Thimphu, got us used to the temperature. An early morning picturesque walk definitely helps. Thimphu has good amount of sightseeing namely the Buddha Dordemma, a 51 m tall statue of Buddha overlooking the Thimphu city and 'Simply Bhutan' (a small museum or culture society) where one can indulge into the Bhutanese culture. Simply Bhutan, you are met by two-three guides who get you acquainted with the culture followed by a full tour of Bhutanese life, how a traditional kitchen is setup, red chilly history and in the end some archery game and the famous butter tea. It is interesting to notice there are so many types of bowls for meals. For married and single person there is a different type of bowl. Also they show how butter is churned to add in tea. There is a nominal fee around 200 INR per person to take this tour. They also perform an agricultural folk song and traditional dance during the tour. 

At the archery practice, if you hit a bulls eye, there are three-four people specially allotted to celebrate your victory in again a type of a traditional ceremony, obviously you can join them. It's quite intriguing and will definitely leave some memories. After all this, they take you at the cafe where butter tea is served and you be an audience to the group dance. You spend a whole two-three hours here and its totally worth it. At the end of the tour, you feel much aware about the culture and the society.

Then one can head to the the tall statue and enjoy the picturesque view of the city. Do note there are many steps to climb, its like a warm up for the trek in Paro to come. The entire statue complex is quite humongous and offers 360 degree view of Thimphu. Inside the monastery, you can observe beautiful paintings and carvings. Its mostly in monasteries where you will find display of 'Druk' the Bhutanese Thunder Dragon on sculptures or carvings. It also appears on the flag of Bhutan, holding jewels to represent wealth. From here to main town is a good descend offering panoramic views. You can also take a pit stop to see king's palace from a top view as entry is not allowed for tourists. Lunch there are many options in Thimphu, would be a good idea to try local delicacies here.  In the evening, one can visit the local markets for shopping, as usual touristy shopping area is costly, so go to the crowded market to get best prices. Thimphu is known for good nightlife, so its a good idea to do pub hopping here.

Next day was the ride to Punakha via Dochula Pass(3150m) which has the 108 memorial stupas for their martyred soldiers. Remember this place was in news when one of the bikers climbed up on a stupa and took a pic, it is highly against their law, tradition and most obviously it was unethical. The route to the stupas from Thimphu was completely foggy. There is one check post here before ascending to the stupas. Now, one of our fellow bikers had lost his way and using google maps he thought, he will rendezvous with us directly at the Stupas. All the paperwork was with our tour leader and unfortunately when he was asked to stop at the check post by police, he couldn't hear them or realized they were signalling him. So he went ahead and immediately one of the police officers followed him and ensured he was bought back to the check post. Even though he explained the situation, he was fined 1200 INR. So its always better to be within the group while riding in Bhutan and following the law strictly, slowing down at junctures and check posts. Once this fiasco was over, we headed to the Stupas. The Stupas from far looked hidden in the dense fog, but when we got closer got a good look. There was a small cafe located opposite the stupas where there were good desserts, snacks and off course a nice hot cup of coffee. One good thing about Bhutan is there is no commercialization, which means everything is local. So no MCDs or Starbucks of the world. You get a nice local experience with pleasing hospitality. 

After visiting the stupas, the ride continues to Punkakha and on reaching, its best to visit suspension bridge directly. From this terrain you start noticing the clean fresh water river streams which look very refreshing. There is no sign of any pollution or contamination in the water, just pure plain old mountain water. Suspension bridge is quite popular and touristy for clicking pics and noticing the views. Also when you walk over, it moves with yours and other people's weight, so its quite fun as well. Then you can also visit the Punakha Dzong (castle) which famous for its architecture.

After Punakha the ride to Paro continues with fresh river streams surrounding all roads and the terrain keeps changing from time to time. Again well constructed roads to really enjoy riding a bike through eye-catching landscapes. We had stopped at a riverside to enjoy the scenery and freshness of flowing mountain water. Again the river is see through as there is no contamination and pollution. Water tastes a little sweet and very pure. There were times where I felt we should not stop only riding, just carry on and keep exploring. It was so mesmerizing, that it can be experienced and believed only once visited. On route just before reaching Paro, one shoud go to Chele La Pass, the highest motorable point in Bhutan, sitting at 3,988 metres (13,083 ft) above sea level. The pass is located 35 km from Paro. The road upwards is narrow and steep, with sharp turns and sheer drops. This was one of my most memorable routes in Bhutan and probably in lifetime too. 

While going up it is still OK, you realize roads are too narrow and your speed is under control. However same doesn't apply while coming down. Once you reach up its quite beautiful, you get surrounding views of valleys and a place dedicated to prayer flags. These flags hold a lot of meaning, Very tall white prayer flags, Manidhar, are also vertical and attached to poles. They are raised on behalf of a deceased person, as a way of remembering the person who died. We also met some Indian armed force personnel as well. Was good to speak to them, asking them about how they manage the weather and other things. True salute to these men. Again there is a vendor here for Maggi and coffee. It goes without saying you need to have it to embrace the fierce cold. We saw little snow but not much of icy roads luckily. There is something called as blind ice where the roads get slippery with snow however are not noticeable to naked eye, good we didn't experience this. I was feeling so cold at this point, decided to go down all by myself without the group. It was good at the start but then the sharp turns while coming down, you need to have proper control. And then all of a sudden I realized brakes are dead, both front and rear. Being a little experienced in bike riding, I knew how to control speeds using gears so still continued. But if something like this happens, best to wait for tour leader and get the bike fixed. Because I did have a close call once with another vehicle coming in front. 

However the entire ride was eventful and once I reached down, brakes started on their own again. Maybe because of cold weather they must have got jammed temporarily. From here we headed to Paro city which is quite beautiful and charming. Paro has the international airport which does count as one of the smallest in the world as the runway is very short. The main street in Paro has many pubs with live music. Paro gives you a good feel of Bhutan and is a very calm city. In the night some pubs do feel alive with live music, Park Street Cafe is one such place with live bands and awesome food.

The next morning in Paro was surprising and left us bewildered. It started snowing suddenly, temperature dropped down to a good 1-2 degrees and heater in the room was necessity. But sky was so overwhelming and hotel had a good view of the main street and overview of Paro. The most important part of itinerary is the trek to Tiger Nest Monastery while in Paro. Everybody does this no matter what. Its just a short drive from the main city to where you can start off the trek. The views from the top are mind blowing. Rest of the time in Paro can be spent on shopping for souvenirs and Bhutanese artifacts if interested. Mountain cafe was a good stopover in the main street for continental snacks like pizza. A break from traditional and Indian food. Also there is a Dzong in this town as well surrounded by river stream. A must visit for appreciating mysterious beauty and charm of Bhutan. 

After Paro, was our last leg of the ride back to Phuentsholing (126 kms – 5-6 hours) and then from there journey to Siliguri for an overnight stay. We left our bikes in Phuentsholing and vans were arranged to reach Siliguri. Now something very funny happened in the van, as it was the last day we were making lot of noise, playing songs on full blast and the driver did warn us, that before crossing the border please stay well behaved. So just before reaching the border one cop stopped our van as so much noise was coming. He said you can do all this once you cross but not in Bhutan territory. He was trying to speak to one of the passengers who was listening to music on earphones. The fellow passenger ignored this and shut the van window on the cop's face. The cop got so angry, he made us wait for sometime and unloaded his frustration on the driver. The driver apologized and somehow the cop let us go. Then the journey was smooth towards our Siliguri hotel and like all good things come to an end this too did. It felt good having proper Indian food after a long time that night. No matter where you go, the flavors and spices of India will always come back to you.

Next day morning flight was booked for return to Mumbai. This was definitely one of the best bike trips I had and the journey down Chele La Pass was unforgettable. Bhutan being so close to India is so different and unique in culture. It was a very eventful trip with loads of memories which will be cherished for times. 

Few important and useful tips about Bhutan:

1. INR works as local currency except 2000 notes last time I checked, you pay in INR everywhere and they might give Bhutanese currency in return for smaller denominations.
2. Indian food available easily and both veg and non veg options. If possible stick more to veg food, as meat mostly being processed frozen meat tastes not as good as fresh.
3. Bhutanese food like Phaksha Pea, Ema Datshi and dim sums are must try but can be spicy
4. We booked bike trip via Deyor Camps which costed Rs.30,000 per person approximately inclusive of accommodation, bike rental, petrol, immigration, bike paperwork, breakfast and dinner meals. The cost will also vary depending on bike you choose and as a couple you get twin room accommodation but as a single you will need to stay in triple room accommodation. There is no major competitor to Deyor Camps yet, so cant really comment whether some other group tour would have been better, Deyor Camps was just a mediator who are completely dependent on their Bhutanese contacts. Their own staff does not come for the trip. Their Bhutanese support team is jolly, polite, helpful and that matters a lot. Also bear in mind that lunch is not inclusive and the group leader will decide the place you halt at.
5. If doing bike trip, please carry own helmet, armored jacket and riding pants/gear with very good protective boots
6. During December season, weather was quite cold so essential to carry thick warmers and thermals
7. Accommodation:

• Phuentsholing – Alem hotel
• Thimphu – Hotel Migmar
• Punakha – Punakha Residency
• Paro – Nirvana Inn

View from Suspension Bridge, Punakha

Chele La Pass 

On route to Paro, fresh water stream

Main Street in Paro Town

Paro Skyline

Tea Break on route to Thimphu 

South Africa - Cape Town and Garden Route

The land of the untamed, uncharted and unbelievable experiences

Along with a group of close friends I decided to visit South Africa during the month of November in 2016. Starting from Cape Town for a couple of days followed by the enormous Garden Route trail was the plan for a trip of 10 days. Ethiopian airlines were a very suitable flight with total 9 hours journey from Mumbai to Johannesburg with a halt in Addis Ababa. From Joburg, there was a short connecting flight to Cape Town. It is highly recommended to book a self-drive car in advance for roaming in this country as most of the places have to be covered on road. Airbnb is also recommended for stay across various locations in SA as they offer more localized and economical accommodation (Refer to link at end of article). 

Cape Town (3 days)

Cape Town located at the South Western Cape of Africa is one of the most beautiful port cities in the world. A blend of nature, adventure, blue seas, wonderful skyline, beaches, windy atmosphere, affluent townships and lovely people is an alluring experience when visiting South Africa. Cape Town is a huge city divided into many pockets. Our apartment in Cape Town was located at a stone’s throw away from the main part of the city and had a mesmerizing view of the table mountain.

The most spectacular and popular attraction is the table mountain national park which each and every tourist visits without fail. There is a cable car which goes all the way up to the top from where incredible views of the city and coast can be seen. Few animals also can be found here like the Dassie Rat which is native rodent. There is a small café also up here.

V&A waterfront is a lively part of the town with an aquarium, a mall and restaurants and bars sprawling across. It is surrounded by as the name suggests a stunning waterfront. The beaches in the city like Camp’s Bay are spectacular and they have swimming zones allotted. There are a lot of excursions from Cape Town which are an essential part of the trip, hence as earlier said, car is a must. Starting from Boulder’s Beach in Simon’s Town which is an hour from Cape Town, it has a big colony of African Penguins. They can be seen up close in their natural environment swimming or just bathing in the sun with their families. 

Then head to Cape Point (Cape of Good Hope) where the two big giant oceans meet – Indian Ocean and the Atlantic. The waves crashing against each other and the power winds are a great experience. There is a funicular which heads to the lighthouse for offering the best views. It’s difficult to hold ground here as the winds are so strong. It’s easy to lose balance and fall. Definitely the camera and glasses should be worn carefully.       

Our first beach experience was quite unforgettable. After we were done with Cape Point, we were anxious to take a dip in the ocean and decided to visit Buffels Bay beach which was just fifteen minutes away from cape point. The water was rough however we we didn’t care. Such a beautiful beach, we went deeper and deeper. There was no one around which we found a bit strange. Then suddenly saw some blue things swimming near us and lot of them were lurking on the sand as well. One of our friends who was not in the water did a basic Google search and found, these things are called Portuguese Man of war (small kind of jellyfish) which are venomous and the stings can be fatal. We just ran out of the water and headed back to the car. We said let’s enjoy another beach which is more safe as we had more than half the trip ahead.   

Another very picturesque location to explore is Chapman’s peak, which can be easily routed while on the way back from Cape Point to main city. This place is again super windy but the views are thrilling. This would be a perfect sunset point for the trip in Cape Town. It’s a really nice drive too. There’s a small toll fee to enter this area. It offers views of valleys and the sea.

During our visit it was so windy that the cable car in Table Mountain was closed for the first two days. Only in our third day of the trip it started. There was a huge queue however we bought prepaid tickets online which helped us a bit in cutting of the line compared to others. Once we were through with this awesome place our road trip commenced towards the garden route.

Garden Route (6 days)

First stop was Mossel Bay (about five hours from Cape Town) which is a very well known shark cage diving spot as a lot of juvenile great white sharks are often lurking around the seal island. Shark cage diving was one of the main reasons to choose South Africa as a destination among other activities and it truly lived up to its promise. I had booked our activity through White Shark Africa who were very professional organizers with trained staff and interns. The cage diving was not fully immersed however was enough to see the giants in reality.  The experience was superb and the anxiety began right from the time we entered the boat. The seas are rough and water visibility is low, depending on weather but these guys have a maximum strike rate when it comes to seeing the great whites. The entire experience right from the time the chums are thrown into the water to lure these giants is surreal. Compared to main stream activities like sky diving, bungee jumping, whale watching, this is totally a must do.

Next stop was Knysna which is known for surfing, paragliding activities and the famous Robberg Island. We stayed at Plettenburg Bay which was just twenty minutes from Robberg Island. This island is all about exploring the wilderness naturally without vehicle and on foot. It’s a huge island with very minimal wild life and there is a bay where seals can be seen in their natural habitat. The island is surrounded by beautiful beaches and since it’s a protected reserve, there are very few people you see around. Also it would take an entire day to cover the entire island on foot. 

On the garden route there are so many activities, it becomes difficult which to choose. Apart from adventure sports like Bungee Jumping at Bloukrans Bridge, skydiving, paragliding, scuba, kayaking & snorkelling in Storms River and zip lining in Tsitsikamma National Park, there are still tonnes of things to do. The Ostrich farm in Oudtshoorn is a cool place where these birds can be fed and experienced up-close. Then there is Cango wildlife ranch very close to it where there is a small sanctuary and crocodile cage diving. We chose to go to Zukani Wildlife Park as there enclosures were quite big so the habitat seems to be more natural to experience the big predators. We saw the White Tiger, Siberian Tiger, Royal Bengal Tiger, African Lions with cubs, Cheetahs, Leopards, Black Panther, Jaguars, Mountain Lion, Hyenas, wild dogs and so on. So mainly all the big cats can be found in one place.

Also very close to it is a snake farm called the Lawnwood Sanctuary where the tour is spectacular. The guide gave a proper tour of the farm showing each and every kind of reptile. Also they let you hold certain non-venomous snakes to let go all your anxieties. We didn’t get a good glance at the Black Mamba and the King Cobra, so the owner himself took us very close and showed us how the snakes are led back into their space once the farm is closed. Was a very close experience, even snakes are moody, didn’t know that.

There are a lot of private wildlife enclosures spread across the garden route; one of them is Scotia Sanctuary which provides a great experience. However we wanted the most natural African bush experience hence opted for Addo Elephant National Park which is near Port Elizabeth (our last stop in Garden Route). It is a national park well protected with very strict rules. We got a fantastic guide with his own personal Land Rover which allowed us to see all the animals from a good height. I didn’t see the big five all together, but saw the big African Elephant up close along with the Wilder Beast. Lot of Warthogs, tortoises, zebras, jackals, ostriches were seen in their natural habitat from a good distance so they are not disturbed.

Port Elizabeth is a good cosy stop to end the garden route and there are direct flights to Joburg to catch the main international flights back home. It’s a silent town with a massive casino and a good number of activities in the day. Whale watching arranged by Raggy Charters is recommended. Also snorkelling in the beaches can be done. 

Though all these activities and information mentioned seem to be synchronized and in order, we had not planned it the same way. We stayed at the main hub of Garden Route which is Knysna only for a day and then headed to Port Elizabeth for four days. So we had to do back and forth (two hour drive) for a couple of activities. The roads were awesome and the drive was superb but the main location of accommodation in Garden Route should be planned in Kynsna or Plettenberg Bay as all main activities are close by to these.

Anyways the garden route offered a thrilling experience, where one can do activities as per particular tastes and fancies. There are many other things like the walk with the Cheetah, Cango caves, and Stellenbosch vineyards and so on. If Kruger national park near Joburg can be added to Garden Route Itinerary with Cape Town, it will be a complete vacation. Nevertheless it was the best adventure trip ever.

Essential Info:

• Accommodation in Airbnb: https://www.airbnb.co.in/wishlists/257242991
• Make sure when booking a car, also rent a GPS
• Safety not an issue in Cape Town and Garden Route, if not driving too late in the night. Walking and strolling in the night however not recommended.
• Everywhere South African currency Rand is universally accepted. Do not transact in dollars or  euros as it may lead to loss in conversion. Lot of local foreign exchange currency dealers are  there in Cape Town who charge less commission and no tax like banks
• Food choices are many, spicy food made in peri peri sauce available all around - Nandos is a must try chain